“Four” Restaurant consists of a mostly Belgian and French based menu with contemporary American, Italian and even Asian influence. On the corner where the spice store The Mustard Seed used to stand, the restaurant has been cleverly redecorated and refinished into a cozy modern atmosphere, complete with a copper industrialized sign out front.

Tonight was going to be first class. One of only two new restaurants downtown I have not tried, “Four” was begging to be examined. Besides, it was my wedding anniversary, which provided additional motivation for a big evening. Our reservations were for two at 6:30, and we were quickly brought to a good table by not just the maitre d’, but one of the co-owners. Chairs pulled out, menus given. Water brought without asking. Already off to a good start. I was intrigued by the name of the restaurant, and then saw the four course Prix Fixe menu for $40. But the waitress assured me that the naming of the restaurant is actually from the French word “four” which translates as “oven,” which I found quite endearing in relation to the owners’ roots.

We fully respected their ‘green’ choices such as Bamboo flooring throughout the restaurant, cloth hand towels in the bathroom, and recycled chairs. The beautiful wall sconces, tiny candles and simple flora adorned with stoned filled vases provided a well relaxed ambiance. The brick walls added to the quietness of the room, and the original oil framed paintings were beautiful to behold throughout.

Two menus are actually offered - a regular menu alongside the $40 fixed menu of four courses. I wasn’t happy pairing fish as a 'first' and red meat as a 'third' from the fixed menu, so I opted out for ala’ carte. I ordered the Beef Tournedos in a roasted shallot reduction with Yukon potatoes off the prix fixe menu, and luckily, my husband ordered something I liked as well off the regular menu so we could share it all - the Steak Tips soaked in a honey soy. These were paired with a glass of Cabernet and German Rieslings. The richer garnet/ruby colored Bonterra Sauvignon was served in the appropriate rounder wider glass, accentuating the rate of oxidation. Aroma was good, but the cork floaters/sediment was a bit revealing as a younger wine for the $10.50 paid. A decanter funnel would have come in handy here. The Clean Slate Riesling, on the other hand, was crisp, sweet, clear, and delightful.

While waiting for our entrees, we could not pass up the Watermelon, Cucumber, and Goat Cheese Salad ($8) coupled with the sticky ribs ($9) as a split appetizer. Oh the joy! The salad was quaint, the cukes cubed, and the watermelon and herbed goat cheese scooped up in a cylindrical fashion, placed neatly on the small plate like a decadent art arrangement. Delicious! The sticky ribs already had a reputation, and I could not wait to bite into them. They were everything I imagined and more. Served four-on-a-plate, glistening with a soy, covered in fresh scallion and sesame, moist, not too hot, and falling off the bone - a far cry from its name. Digging in and out of our bread basket where the fresh homemade coriander and French bread lay, we feverishly used up all of our mid-melted butter pads and fresh garlic cloves in no time. The basket was quickly refilled just before the main course. Beautifully done.

When the entrees arrived, I was not surprised at all. Given what we had already experienced with the appetizers, I knew they would both be cooked to perfection served on beautiful French white plates, lathered or supported by our side dishes of horseradish mashed or Yukon potatoes with roasted squash, and donning a spectacular garnish - carrots cut every which way, obviously the chef’s favorite that night. The roasted mushrooms were an added side dish, tastefully done, and complimenting the beef jus of both plates very well. Portions were perfect enough to skim the dessert menu.

As with any ‘huge’ night out in my book, the last course is always my favorite - to be enjoyed without reservation, albeit a ‘to-go’ bag presented alongside it. We could not resist sampling 3-out-of-4 desserts offered, as it was so well described via our waitress. The steamed chocolate cake was like a dark soufflé from heaven, light, hot and rich. The cast iron cobbler was adorned with banana and walnuts ala mode. And lastly, my favorite, served in a martini-sized glass was a real butter-scotch pudding topped with homemade whipped cream. No lumps, just amazing.

A wonderful anniversary dinner well spent. Rest assured, with so many other menu options to explore, we promised the very cordial owners to return. This is no ‘small oven’! Hats off to the chef. First class service and food. A pleasant new beginning.

Visit Four at 189 State Street featuring “local seasonal ingredients roasted in a wood fire oven.” With only 15 tables - reservations are highly recommended, M-SAT only 5:30-close. Parking is scarce; the city garage may be your best option. Moderate to high priced menu options available ($7-$29). www.fouronstate.com. Ph#: 603.319.1547