The next time you’re planning to drive by the Southgate Plaza, don’t. Turn in. There’s an unexpected valuable mineral to be found behind the 99 Restaurant. Somewhere beyond the ongoing construction in the back parking lot is a surprisingly amazing palate-perfect gem.

“Shio” Japanese Restaurant is new. Well, new to our town that is. The owners are formerly from Moritomes in Concord, but have brought the style and seductiveness of Asian cuisine our way thankfully. The name “Shio” literally means ‘salt.’ Moreover, that’s what you’ll find here - everything favorable.

My first thought when entering Shio was that it was going to be a buffet, so I wasn‘t really too psyched about checking it out since the gift certificate to the Chinese buffet in Newington was still sitting in my purse, unused. But I was pleasantly surprised at the expensive décor and non-buffet layout when I opened the front door to Shio. Traditional floor mats aside, I took one of the open (yet private) Tatami dining rooms, complete with holes in the floor instead to ease this Westerner’s ambulation, need I have to rush anywhere quickly. As streamline and conservative as the room seemed, it was also very comfortable. I do find comfort, as well as a bit of balance, is definitely key while sipping on a scorpion bowl for one. With my drink selection out of the way, I focused on trying a bit of my favorites. As an appetizer, the harumaki (pork spring roll) was exquisite. For an entrée, I selected the shrimp tempura and chicken katsu, the breading of which was light and divine. The yakitori was next, finely skewered and smothered in a bold teriyaki sauce. Topping the plate was tori tatsuta, which is the Japanese equivalent of a chicken nugget. All the dipping sauces were scrumptious, especially the tonkatsu sauce. And yes, I skipped the wasabi - that I only use as an emergency mouth rinse if ever I’m forced to eat real sushi. I was, however, somehow talked into a fried banana, even though my gut nearly reached the lantern hanging over me after my main meal wagon.  After eating the deadly “3 F’s” in one sitting (Fried, Fatty, Filling food) - I thought the last thing I wanted was something heavy on top of it all, but it seemed somehow to work wonders on my digestion. My waitress was definitely onto something…although maybe she’s seen too many Monty Python movies.

I watched the plates go by my table as well while waiting for my bill. The first plate to pass looked cooked to perfection -a soft shell crab in a tangy vinegar sauce off the menu, which seemed a risk for Japanese cuisine, but put a smile on my face nonetheless. The next food to pass was a garlic broccoli side dish for another table, the light brown sauce oozing and steaming upward, filling the air in the restaurant until I left. The dishes were rolling by, which was comforting to see. I do hope the place does well. It’s off to a good start in my book, getting four stars from me!

Recently a friend of mine was downtown on a busy evening and was turned away or told to wait at every restaurant she tried to get into, so she ventured more south and found this restaurant, which greeted her kindly and accommodated her easily. Fortunately, we were able to share our experiences:

• IMPRESSIVE ELEMENT: Chopstick rest -beautiful blue/gray porcelain dish given
• CLASS ACT: Warm cloths to wash your hands in before being served
• FORGOTTEN ELEMENT: Tea! No tea on the table or ever suggested
• BEST RECOMMENDATION FOR $: Shio Bento Special - includes 1 entrée and 2 appetizer selections
• INTERESTING MENU ITEM ADD-ON: Flying fish caviar on the roll for a buck
• DOWNSIDE: For such an elegant restaurant, it seems in a strange spot - somewhere between the chain restaurants of Route 1 going towards Rye, and uber-expensive chic restaurants we have come to love downtown. Maybe they are just setting a precedence for other occupants in that strip mall to step up their game. Either way, I welcome this new restaurant to compete with the likes of Sakurabana and Sake. Sakurabana surely serves up one of the biggest Bento (lunch boxes) I have ever had, complete with salad and fruit, with the best Fuki wine, while Sake’s presentation wins easily overall - servers seen only in traditional hand sewn kimono dress. Nevertheless, it's a local consumer's advantage to get in before word spreads.  I find Shio overall has the most adventurous menu and best tasting food of the three. Let them improve your flavor of life-

Visit Shio at 2454 Lafayette Road - business hours are lunch 11:30-3:00 p.m. daily, dinner starting at 4:30 p.m.  Sundays open only from 2:00-9:30 p.m.  Tel# 603-319-1638