Restaurant week always holds a place in my heart.  Loaded with risk-taking selections of recipes by chefs wrapped in a 3-course prix fixe menu, offering exceptional service, dinners with low lighting for romantic ambiance, and special pricing; it’s a must for the true Portsmouth foodie.  Held semiannually now, there’s no excuse to be missing this event, and I rarely do.

Restaurant week was celebrated among 32 participating Seacoast restaurants this fall, so it was hard to decide which of these to explore for dinner.  Then I remembered one that I had promised to visit, and tried to make my reservation.  Much to my surprise, outside of the norm, this restaurant decided to stay true to its tradition of not accepting reservations – so I made sure to get there at 5:00 p.m. on the nose.  The Common Man, having just opened in downtown Portsmouth.  I had finally arrived to scratch it off my dining 'bucket list'.

Greeted and served a drink while waiting to be seated, I was pleasantly led upstairs to take my table – menu placed in hand even before I sat.  Ultimately, there was so much to choose from at $29.95, though with two other people accompanying me, easy to share.  I started with the roasted red and golden beet warmed chevre salad, which was tangy and huge in proportion to my friend’s sweet and spicy butternut squash with coconut milk bisque, and the gorgonzola salad with candied walnuts parked on my other side.  I was lucky to be the only one loving beets and so devoured it without interruption from scavengers.  The beets were quartered and fresh, dressed appropriately, finally.  A ‘drowned’ salad is too common and my worst nightmare. 

In between our “Great Beginnings” they served us all a “Sunshine Wine Course,” which we had to choose between limoncello or homemade tart lemonade shooters to clean the palate, getting ready for the main course.  This was served ice cold, perfectly smooth and loaded with liquor.  Awesome. 

I then prepared for the Nantucket sauté, which was served piping hot.   Linguini topped with jumbo shrimp, huge scallops, mussels riming the dish, and calamari, all in a lobster cream sauce with diced steamed tomatoes, did not disappoint.  I couldn’t finish it, that is to say, I was definitely full, and still had my “Sweet Endings” coming, so I had to put my fork down and try to digest while I watched it sadly coagulate a bit.  With a meal like this, there is no taking anything home.  You either eat as much as you can, or leave hungry.  I don’t want to see this again tomorrow because it will only remind me of how full I was at the moment I said goodbye. 

I opted for a cup of coffee after having a glass of Merlot, as the inevitable arrived.  There in front of each of us was this unbelievable dessert – an enormous square shaped custardy-looking thing drizzled with some sort of sauce and higher than the bowl it was placed in.  However, it was not what I expected.  It was better.  Nothing looked or tasted like the advertised white chocolate bread pudding here, sorry to say.  But, it did taste like a butterscotch custard, the likes of no other I have ever tried!  A soft exterior, but smooth and creamy inside with intermittent homemade whipped cream making its way on my spoon as I dug deeper.  A terrific combination of sweetness that melted in my mouth.  Seriously, one of the best desserts I have had in a long time.  I am an old soul who loves custard (grapenut is my favorite), so finding one in the seacoast that rivals anything else was exciting.  Nope, not bread pudding by definition.  No bread found here. 

In toto – this meal was nothing of what I had been expecting out of an American style restaurant at all.  My friend’s flat iron steak was cooked to perfection with chimichurri and ancho chili pesto, as was the pan seared (biggest I’ve ever seen) scallops in saffron orange butter we also shared with our third party.  I was surprised and elated to find this quality of cooking from a new chain restaurant in fact.

My only complaint of the evening is that they sat us all at the top of the stairs, which had a draft, as well as being too close to the server’s station, easily overhearing the waitresses woes of the evening.  And everyone coming and going felt that needed to say something because they couldn’t walk by without locking eyes with anyone at our table.  “Goodnight,” “Hello,” or head nods enveloped the dinner. 

The old “Victory” sign left in the stairwell leading up to the second floor is a nice touch, however.  I miss the old restaurant, but hopefully something newer and better has arrived.  I’ll surely miss the Pimm’s cocktail, but hopefully there will be something to look forward to in the new bar menu – right?
 
The Common Man (Where Victory used to be)

96 State Street

Portsmouth

603-334-6225

www.thecman.com/restaurants/common-man-portsmouth/

Awards range from Best of NH 2009, Business NH Top 100, Restaurant Neighbor Award, R&I Top 75, and The Griffin Report’s Best Places to Work

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Okay, we’ve all heard that eating gluten-free is the way to go, but can we give up that yummy bread?  You don’t have to if you’re eating at Anello’s Cafe.

Another of my favorite ‘hole in the wall’ places is this tasty little shop located right on Congress Street.

According to the owner and chef, Traci Anello, she has been creating award-winning pastries in the area for over 25 years.  Her “Gluten Free Cuisine” show has been broadcast nationally on the Chef Kitchen series, and her food styling has been showcased on Phantom Gourmet.  She takes pride that her restaurant is 100% gluten free, and many people I have run into that suffer from Celiac disease say they were eager for something like this to finally arrive in Portsmouth.

But what is gluten?  Gluten is the mixture of proteins we find in wheat, barley, and rye grains - eaten almost every day in fact as Americans.  Why is this bad for us?  Because gluten is actually a stabilizing additive, present in all baked/preserved foods, basically to help it stick together.  Not too appetizing at all if you realize this is basically a gum.  Gluten irritates the gut, and its damage can be very serious for some.  Ever feel really bloated after eating grains?  Well, gluten is the culprit.  I love bread and grains, but I don’t want to pay for it, so I’m trying to eat a bit more naturally, and I’m definitely feeling a difference in the way my body responds to going out for lunch.

As I sat eating in Anellos one afternoon, I watched the window adjacent my table for people spying in on the new restaurant and reading the menu taped to the glass.  Many turned away rather than opening the door, and I wondered if it was because they were stuck in the mode of thinking that something gluten-free must also be taste-free.  Not true!  On the contrary, I could not find anything more appetizing than their homemade 8” pizza covered in roasted veggies.  The very crispy crust was doused with mouth-watering fresh vegetables such as peppers, caramelized onions, red onions and broccoli.  Extraordinary.  The freshest vegetables I’ve ever had on a pizza, hands down.  Reverting back to the crust, this was simply delicious.  No taste or texture issues here.  The smell of herbs like rosemary and oil olive filling my senses.  The chicken salad was also the crispest and freshest I’ve had in a long time, topped with a creamy balsamic.

Their menu is wonderful.  There are breakfast and lunch items to choose from including bagels, muffins, egg and cheese rolls, salads, paninis, chips, signature sandwiches, flatbread pizzas (that rival or better Flatbread’s downtown), soups/chowders, quiches, and daily specials.  There are also ready-made items in their deli-case ready to be bought and consumed at home like mac and cheese, potato salad, or even blueberry cobbler bars.

We really need to support this bakery/restaurant downtown.  My worry is that it might disappear sometime soon if more patrons don’t embrace this menu.  It is hard to find parking downtown – but please try to order ahead from their menu online and then pick it up when it’s convenient for you.

Did I mention the homemade gluten-free whoopie pies?  Oh my gosh!  Rich, rich chocolate taste.  Sticky, yummy center.  I don’t think about gluten-free anything when I’m biting into one of these, I gotta tell ya.  This shop is for everyone, not just those concerned about eating gluten in their food.  It’s healthier for you and definitely does not compromise on taste or presentation.

Traci learned her craft from her Sicilian grandmother many years ago.  Her cousin is Academy Award Nominated actor Chaz Palminteri.  She also offers catered treats, wedding or specialty cakes, and private classes.  Truly a talented woman we want to keep in business here in Portsmouth.  Order your holiday pies and breads now.  Let’s all gloat, not bloat at Anellos.

Anello’s Gluten Free Café, Inc., (Near the Square)

41 Congress Street, downtown Portsmouth
603-319-8122

For business hours, see the web: www.anelloscafe.com.

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  Halloween is almost upon us.  I'm staring at my pumpkin - trying to figure out what to carve it into, and whether I'll just salt and broil the seeds again this year on a layer of aluminum or not...not. That's my decision. It just seems too boring this year. Call it a good weather high - I'm in the mood for this holiday and I want to experience something new. Martha Stewart suddenly popped in my head.  What would Martha do?  She makes lovely things out of the pumpkin meat, but what about the seeds?

The search was on for what to do...although even Martha seemed stumped on this one.  I did find several people thankfully on the internet in discussion groups who boil their seeds to infuse the salt within the shell - a bit gooey, reminding me of one roadside experience with boiled peanuts in Alabama - something I would rather forget.  Another person added Worcestershire sauce and cayenne pepper before roasting them, but I'm not a 'hots' type of person.  A friend of mine washed hers, placed them on a cookie sheet with oil and salt on low heat and baked them until they rounded and browned.  Even more boring. 

I finally combined two recipes for roasting that included onion powder, garlic powder, salt, pepper, sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg mixed together and sprinkled over the seeds, baked at 400 degrees for 45 minutes. No fatty butter or oil, and suprisingly - they were still scrumptious.  When in doubt, try something new I always say.  I also read that using winter squash or even watermelon seeds in the summertime work just as well with these spices.  So, this is not just a 'seasonal' idea after all. Storing these in an airtight container for a week to enjoy all week.

 Lil' ditty:

One cup of pumpkin seeds = 285 calories, 12 grams of fat (only 2 gms saturated), 12 gms of sodium (this is before you salt them of course), packing in 34 grams of carbs, and 12 grams of protein.  What it doesn't have?  CHOLESTEROL.  Yeah.  Thanks Nutritiondata.com 

According to Learninginfo.com, pumpkin seeds are actually one of nature's "almost perfect" foods.  Carbs+amino acids+unsaturated fats+vitamins C, D, E & K +calcium, potassium, niacin and phosphorus.  Amazing.  They have been known to treat bladder ailments, eliminate parasites from the intestines, help combat prostate cancer, prevent hardening of the arteries, as well as treat depression.  Sure, one handful of the slimy stuff should suffice in it's raw form.  But what happens when you roast em?  How much do they lose?  From Nutrition.about.com I found the answer: "Eating nuts and seeds is a delicious way to get some of your daily protein and healthy fats. Roasting nuts and seeds does reduce the antioxidant levels and healthy fats just slightly, but it doesn't turn nuts and seeds into unhealthy foods. For example, almonds will keep your cholesterol levels healthy whether you choose raw almonds or roasted almonds." 

Phew!  Just have to watch the sodium level then - watch those labels of your 'add-on's' people.

Gotta' get the pumpkin carving finished.  Sorry, I forgot about you, withering and rotting as I enjoy your seeds.

Happy Halloween everyone.  Just a reminder to keep nutrition in the back of your mind at all times and not on the back burner.  Eat some pumpkin seeds before you reach for the candy in your child's bag when they've fallen asleep. 

Watch for my review of 'Anello's' - coming soon!

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While I work on my next in-depth restaurant review (hint: japanese), I sit sipping some wonton soup from Kim Lai and wondering what happened to its contents.  Why do I have more broth than ever?  And when my seafood plate arrives, I learn the meaning of 'shrimp' - it's just that: small.  I love this restaurant.  And I don't blame them for cutting the portions - everyone is on the same train.  But it just sucks when you haven't eaten breakfast and realize you had to order that second plate because the soup just ain't cuttin' it.

Returning to the law of supply and demand - or should I say demand and then supply - I have to admit I've not only seen less pork wonton and shrimp, but less people filling the tables.  Less demand=less supply in this economic squeeze. 

I have to think back throughout the past few months, even through tourist season (which obviously wasn't great), at which time I initially blamed the weather for the sift, and now I actually believe was due to the tightening of many wallets.  The restaurants in the area have definitely seen better days.  Do you notice all the coupons being offered?  And they are being forced to save product because they're slow.  This has been true from the poshest of restaurants downtown to the fast food chains.  Some local owners have cut hours, waitstaff and even the laundry bill.  The Blue Claw downtown once prided itself on serving 'fresh lobster meat' in their rolls, but alas, this is now frozen unfortunately.  McDonalds spent more money pushing Newman's coffee this year than any other product it seems, and Dunkin Donuts came up with the mini-omelette.  Food is being preserved, falsly advertised, and portions decreased  due to affordability sake, and I'm not happy. 

On the flip side, you'll read that America is the fattest country in the world.  Our portions are out of control.  Doesn't make me happy to hear that either.  I feel stuck between a slice of bacon and a fruit cup.  The buffet is back, however.  The prices have gone up, sure.  But at least I can eat, go back for seconds, and possibly stick something in my purse, ahem - 'doggie bag' on the way out.  Downside: buffets can and will make you huge just by looking at them.  Pace yourself.  And try to stay away from them when you need comfort or they can be deadly.

Last week my husband and I went to Mama D's Casa di Pasta and came home with leftovers.  Enough to last us 4 days in fact.  That was heaven.  Then we had a party the other night with 30 or so people, who each brought something to share, and we are now finishing that up as well.  This newly refrigerated treasure chest will take more than 4 days to engulf, I assure you.  THAT I am happy about since I am not the cook in this family.  And home parties are great, but I still need to eat out. 

Maybe we can all try to frequent our local restaurants a bit more and live with the fact that we're paying the same price for less.  We should support them more because I believe this recession won't last forever.  Nothing lasts forever, fortunately.  Call me the most hopeful gastronomic visionary, but I feel if we band together, we can keep our city scene hopping and bring our portions back to us.

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Under the weather?  Jet lagged?  Just need an energy boost?  When I am any or all of these, I turn to The Juicery.  Packed with fresh local (mostly organic) goodness and spring water, this tiny spot hits the spot every time and I swear by it. My personal pick-me-up at least once per month – The Juicery is essential for my good health and well-being, and now I share my secret with you.  We all strive for clear soft skin, good nails, and healthy hair.  Although exercise can help, you are what you eat, don’t forget.  And I can’t forget this place or how I feel after I’ve had just one concoction.

Learning what to mix is actually fun.  Your taste buds are your friend, so trust them.  Start with something sweet and then add on.  Don’t be afraid to experiment.  I create my own juice from time to time, starting always with a lemon and then sneaking the sometimes bitter various veggie choices in, topping off with another fruit such as an orange. 

This menu works for me.  Juicing is an art, with some potent formulas known to cleanse acidity from the blood and maintain proper pH, while maintaining a healthy weight and protecting against disease.  When I’m looking to cleanse my system, I drink the Omega-3 sensational smoothie.  If I need a quick jolt of energy, I drink a shot of wheat grass or add a natural supplement like cacao to a juice.  It only takes a minute for them to whip it together and then I can enjoy it over the next hour slowly.  Heaven.  Hungry for something more than a liquid lunch?  The Juicery also boasts a great menu of organic food including wraps, tempeh, tofu, salads and more.  My favorite has to be the Middle Eastern – scattered veggies and hummus drizzled with a very tasty homemade dill dressing, tightly blanketed in a wheat tortilla. 

Fitness expert and world renowned juicer Jack LaLanne had it right when he proclaimed, "I drink 6 or seven glasses of water a day.  I also drink vegetable juice.  And I have at least 5 or 6 pieces of fresh fruit everyday and 10 raw vegetables."   The man turns 95 next month and is in better shape than I.  Frightening statistic.  He is definitely what he eats.  In fact, he’s also living proof that natural sugar is a good thing, and that makes me ecstatic!  Don’t mess with my sugar!

Can’t chew your greens?  You’re the perfect customer…Drink em’!  Try (Kittery’s own) Dr. Lebro’s recommended supplement shot which includes barley grass, spirulina, wheat, bee pollen, and a few other things that I trust are also good for you and me.  The taste you ask?  Well, that’s what the juice is for!  Use that as a ‘chaser’ to your veggie drink. 

Ever since The Juicery opened, juicing at home has stopped.  I just can’t compete with their fantastic formulas or reach their refreshingly frothy goodness.  I just left my juicer with my daughter in Connecticut with hope she’ll use it there and stay healthy with her busy schedule in college.  That is, if she can afford the oranges and carrots.

The Juicery

Serving the freshest juice and vegetarian food in Portsmouth

Located at 51 Hanover Street, across from the main entrance to the town multilevel parking garage

http://www.portsmouthjuicery.com/come-visit/

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I eat, therefore, I am.  But, tell me where am I exactly? 

I’ll give you a hint or two -

Don’t get me wrong, I usually love fine dining, and I want to eat well, or at least more healthy for that matter; but a few times a year, (okay a month lately), I make myself truly happy by visiting this charming, not-so-ordinary trailer for some real "All-Americana" down-to-earth grub.   

That’s right - I said the word ‘trailer.’ Don’t be alarmed.  Be very excited.  Honest.   

If you want great fast food, I give it to you, in all its greasy glory of a menu.  Only four tiny steps up and through a charming slider door before you’re in cheeseburger/chili hotdog/cheese fry/grilled cheese heaven.  I give my order and wait, swiveling around in one of eight black and silver old-fashioned fountain stools inside.  I smell it.  I want it.  I am secretly drooling.  Not a pretty sight.  Who’s serving today - is it Christina or Adam?  Who cares.  All I know is that I’ve ordered the house specialty - and I need it like an impatient addict.  I’m here because not all of my days flow like good wine.  That’s right - the “Poutine” - a French fry boat delight slathered in melted fresh cheddar curds and rich dark gravy, (bacon bits are extra) is finally mine to consume.

Have you guessed it?  If you haven’t, then you just haven’t been - because you’d never forget it.  And you can’t just show up once.  Nope - this hole-in-the-'road' restaurant, hidden deep downtown on Fleet Street is Gilley’s, of course, and it will reel you in, again - and again, and again...

Frequented by the drunk after hours, yes.  So cramped you have to watch what you’re putting into your mouth - that includes others’ elbows, yes.  So hot inside on some summer days that you’d eat it raw if they’d give it to you long before placing it on the grill, oh yeah.  Beloved by all, you bet.  If you want ballpark-type tasting food after a good night of drinking, this is where you end up in Portsmouth in the wee hours.  Or in my case, a bad day at work and I’m on my lunch break.  Hands down, this is the number 1 spot to pick up a very quick bite when you don’t care what you look like or who’s watching you inhale your food like a Hoover.

Established in 1921 by Ralph Gilbert, who wheeled it around in front of the North Church before eventually placing it on Fleet Street in 1974, Gilley’s is a staple of Portsmouth in my opinion.  I’d go so far to say a state landmark indeed.  It’s earned it.  The new management hasn’t changed a thing either - thank goodness - and thanks again Stephen. 

Don’t let this lil’ restaurant on wheels fool you, however. It can hold its own.  Just look to the right as you walk in - the prestigious wall speaks for itself.  Phantom Gourmet hailed it as a “hidden jewel” in 1991, and it was featured in food magazine during the “50 States/50 Burgers” campaign, as well as having won several Best of NH Awards including 2002's Best French Fries, Best Cheap Eats, and Best Hot Dogs. 

We’re all lucky they keep ‘flippin’ em’ at Gilley’s.  Ah Gilley’s, how I love thee…let me count the ways…dogs, cheese, and fries - oh my!

I can’t help but let the grease run through my fingers, down the palm of my hand, and onto my shirtsleeve.  I feel like I'm breaking the rules, and it's freeing.  It’s all part of the experience...with perhaps a dash of nostalgia in there somewhere too.  Besides, I’m due for a good spot wash and nap before I return to the office - or perhaps at the least, a call to my doc for an arterial flush.  Heck, it’s all worth it.  The smile on my face says so.  On second thought, maybe I should have sat outside on one of the picnic benches…sorry for dropping that on your shoe mister…but you might want to save that for later it's so good!    

GILLEY’S  @ 175 Fleet Street, Portsmouth        

603-431-6343  Open daily 11-2:30 a.m.

Bring cash - cuz' that's all they take!

=Oh so good. 

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Second only to my husband’s spanikopita, my friend Mary* loves the stuffed dates at the new Cava Restaurant downtown, as do I.

I’m really not sure what it is about these tiny treats. I’m not really a ‘date’ person at all, but the first time I threw them down the shoot at Cava I knew I was hooked. The owner is standing over my shoulder (lucky me) as I stare blankly at the menu and ask, “What’s great on this Lebanese-style tapas selection to try first?”

I recall reacting a bit unhappily as he said, “The dates!” but I took his advice, and my mood relaxed a bit when the plate arrived and I saw the amount of preparation that had gone into the small bites. A superior introduction followed from the waiter and I eagerly bit in. Similar to rice-and-meat stuffed grape leaves, dolmades in the Greek tradition, these tiny dates were filled with a hard Spanish manchego cheese and wrapped to taut perfection with a delicate and juicy thinly sliced ham.

I cannot tell you how elated I was to find them so sweet, moist, quite unbelievably the BEST dates I have ever had. I ever had. EVER. I brought two of my friends to dine on these, as well as my husband, and haven’t stopped talking about them yet. Please, try the dates! Cava is the first restaurant I mention because their dates are so incredibly, mouth-wateringly delicious.

Q&A with John Akar, proprietor of Cava Restaurant

Q: What is YOUR favorite food on the menu?
A: The Foie Gras Bocadillo.

Q: The number of wait staff, cooks, & bartenders?
A: Total staff is about 22

Q: What is something you'd like to feature on the menu that is exotic, but would probably never sell
A:  An Arabic delicacy, which is raw lamb

Q: How many can Cava seat? A: Inside: 42. Outside: 28. Total: 70.

Q: Do you offers catering/special parties?
A: Yes!

Q: Has anyone from the new movie “Crooked Lane” with Ann Cusack being shot outside your restaurant visited?
A: The director stops in all the time and usually gets the swordfish and gazpacho shooters

Q: If you had to dine at any other restaurant downtown - where would it be and why? What item(s) is/are your favorite?
A: The Black Trumpet, I love Evan's food and I'm not sure what I would get because I haven't been able to go for a while

Q: Did you do good business during Market Square?
A: Yes - we were very busy for Market Square Day

Q: You would recommend WHICH wine in-house w/your now famous dates?
A: The Pinot Blanc from France Turkheim

Visit Cava
www.cavatapasandwinebar.com
10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth NH, (603) 319-1575
Recommendation: Roasted medjool dates ~ $8 (They really ARE yummy! Who knew?) 

Reservations strongly recommended.

Eryn EpiCurious has been a Portsmouth resident for 13 years, and eating here long before that. Her love of new foods, passion for good restaurant etiquette, obsession with desserts, and experience in the restaurant business drove her straight to Portsmouthnh.com to search for new places to dine. She would like to have Rachel Ray return to the Seacoast to try ‘another‘ restaurant, Dave Barry or the Dog Whisperer share a lunch with her, and Erma Bombeck instruct her from her grave how to keep ‘funny’ alive when dining out with grouchy guests.

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