Fall is upon us, and what a glorious fall we are having this year. Mild, sunny days, crisp, cool nights and produce shelves erupting with gorgeous squash, gourds, pumpkins, pomegranates and apples. Statistically, most people list fall as their favorite season. Its easy to see why; fall connotes the "hunker down," the annual nesting that we New Englanders, anyway, look forward to after a hot and humid summer (OK, back when we used to HAVE summer). In my family, I know autumn has arrived when we put the gardens to bed, chop firewood and smell that autumnal combination of forest, leaves and earth in decomposition. Sort of gross, but totally necessary. It’s also when I start shifting away from salads and clear soups to stews and more substantial meals. In keeping with the Mediterranean philosophy of eating lots of grains and vegetables, this post is all about the mushroom.(photo courtesy of Healthy Home Harvest, LLC.)

What could be heartier, earthier and woodsier than a mushroom? Going with the whole fall/decomposition thing, fungi actually recycle dead organic matter into useful nutrients like magnesium, potassium and fiber. For those who omit meat from their diet, mushrooms also provide a rich, meaty texture. Recently I purchased a pound of Italian dove and oyster mushrooms from Healthy Home Harvest LLC, of Barrington and Northwood, NH, growers of high-quality, organically-produced plants and mushrooms. One peek inside the bag was enough to give me a night’s worth of Alice in Wonderland dreams. Those buggers were FUNKAY.
As luck would have it, I was not afforded the luxury of cooking with the beauties over the weekend and thus, had to come up with a weeknight dish that would use most of the yield; couldn’t risk the possibility of the glorious specimens going soggy on me. I debated using them in an old Epicurious standby, beef stew with mushrooms (and a whole bottle of red wine) but decided I didn't want the mushrooms to have to compete with any meat. Instead, I found a recipe for mushroom lasagna that called for both dried and fresh mushrooms (over a pound) and a béchamel sauce. Not a super simple dish, however, it is positively To. Die. For. Grab a hefty glass of good Spanish red, put on some music and roll up your sleeves.
Mushroom filling:
2 cups boiling water
1 cup dried porcini mushrooms (about 1 ounce)
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups chopped onion
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound of wild mushrooms
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup Côtes du Rhône or other fruity red wine
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh or 3/4 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Béchamel: 3 cups 1% low-fat milk
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons sifted all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Remaining ingredients: Olive oil or butter for greasing pan
1 (8-ounce) package precooked lasagna noodles
1 cup (4 ounces) grated fresh Parmesan cheese

To prepare filling, combine water and porcini in a small bowl; let stand 30 minutes. Drain porcini through a sieve over a bowl, squeezing porcini to extract liquid. Reserve 1 1/2 cups liquid; discard remaining liquid. Rinse porcini, and drain. Chop coarsely; set aside.
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion; sauté 5 minutes or until tender. Add garlic; sauté 30 seconds. Add wild mushrooms and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Sauté 5 minutes or until mushrooms release moisture and begin to brown. Stir in porcini, wine, and soy sauce. Cook 4 minutes or until liquid almost evaporates, stirring frequently. Stir in parsley and rosemary. Add the reserved porcini liquid; bring to a simmer. Cook until liquid is reduced to 3/4 cup (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat; stir in 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
To prepare béchamel, place milk in a 4-cup glass measure. Microwave at HIGH 3 minutes or until hot, stirring after 2 minutes. Melt butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add flour, stirring with a whisk, and cook 1 minute or until bubbly, stirring constantly. Gradually add milk, stirring constantly with a whisk. Bring to a simmer; cook over low heat 8 minutes or until sauce slightly thickens, stirring frequently. Remove from heat, and stir in 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg.
Preheat oven to 350°.
Spread 1/2 cup béchamel in bottom of an 11 x 7-inch baking dish coated with oil or butter. Arrange 3 noodles over béchamel; top with 1/2 cup béchamel. Top with 1 cup mushroom mixture. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup cheese. Repeat layers three times (dish will be very full). Cover with foil; place baking dish on a baking sheet. Bake at 350° for 30 minutes. Uncover lasagna; bake an additional 15 minutes or until cheese melts.
Chow,
Nancy Pearson
Nancy lives in Seacoast, NH and enjoys food, fashion and all things Mediterranean.